Muay Thai One On

With the King's birthday celebration in a couple of days, Rajadamnoen Nok Rd. in Bangkok was covered in yellow lights, lanterns, large portraits of the King, murals of his military successes, performances of emo pop music, a Vegas lounge singer crooning in his honor, and even a puppet show about his life, Punch and Judy-style. Thank god for Muay Thai or I wouldn't have seen this at all.

I was headed to Rajadamnern Stadium. Since I first started planning this trip, Muay Thai fights were on my list, but on the ground, by myself, spectating felt intimidating. I decided to check out the scene, then commit. 

Outside the stadium, men milled about in the shadows, smoking, eating, on their phones, or just leaning together. I was definitely the whitest, tallest and most female person in view. Suddenly, a woman with a clipboard approached, immediately engaging me in a ticket purchase: 3 options. You want to sit down? Best to be on the floor. Closest to the ring. She walked me in, helped me buy a ticket (the priciest - 1000 baht) and swept me into the stadium where I was ushered to my seat. Fourth row in what was clearly the farang section. 

Behind me, behind a railing, all Thai men. Bookies on the 2nd tier signaled to the 3rd tier, who shouted through a chain link fence. Between the yelling and the music, the noise was deafening.

A quartet of drums and wind instruments played music throughout, an eerie loop with angry tones. Before each fight, the fighters did a ritualized, ceremonial dance -- called wai kru, I learned later. None of the fighters appeared to be older than 20, most more like 14 or 15. Winners donned a string of marigolds.

Sitting on the floor meant you could get drinks and popcorn, but even better: after the match, you could go backstage. After the media interviewed the winner, the fighter would pose for a photo with you. 

The last fight of the night, two boys not more than 8 or 9 years old entered the ring, one with a coach one without. Their families stood in their corner, moms looking drawn and worried, but cheering with force. I realized that Muay Thai gave hope like boxing does in the US. A way up and out for those who don’t have many options.